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There are mythical waves all over the world, known for their imposing size and power.
Some are almost 30 metres high - the equivalent of a 10-storey building!
Only over-trained surfers can take on these giants of the sea.
If such waves can be formed, it's thanks to the seabed, whose specific characteristics influence the size and shape of the wave.
You probably already know some of them!
These giants of the seas include :
Nazaré is THE biggest wave in the world (at least surfable), located in Portugal.
If such a wave can form, it's due to the very particular seabed in the area.
In fact, a submarine canyon lies beneath the spot, stretching for a hundred kilometers, reaching depths of up to 5,000 meters, then suddenly shrinking to 50 meters as you approach the Nazaré lighthouse.
This canyon channels the swell from the open sea and, when the weather conditions are right, it crashes against the end of the canyon, creating a huge wave that can reach 30 metres in height.
Nazaré's waves are therefore dependent on storms in the open sea, which create large swells as they approach the coast.
The big wave season generally arrives in the middle of winter, between October and March.
If you ever get the chance to visit Portugal, don't hesitate to stop by! Maybe Nazaré will wake up ;)
Located in the Hawaiian archipelago, north of the island of Maui. Jaws, which means "jaw" in reference to the ferocity of the wave, can reach a height of 24 metres and travel at speeds of around 50 km/h!
Its name comes from the famous Spielberg film Jaws.
This is surely one of the most difficult waves to tackle. Imagine rowing at around 8 km/h and being hit by a monster breaking at 50 km/h.
Only the best surfers who have undergone specific physical training can compete against it.
Jaws, on the other hand, has no fatalities, as its seabed is deep enough and, with the new rescue equipment, surfers escape unharmed despite the wipeouts they may make.
Jaws often appears between December and February when weather conditions are right.
One of the world's best-known and deadliest spots, Mavericks rises 1km from the coast and generally measures between 7 and 20 metres in height.
It rises after major storms in the North Pacific, and its seabed is characterized by a sudden, abrupt rise.
The rocky seabed is highly unpredictable, making it difficult for surfers to position themselves on the rising seabed. Not always easy to spot once in the water. It also happens that the wave starts to break before the seabed rises (outside waves).
Nevertheless, once tamed, the sensations are there for the taking.
And do you know why it's called Maverick? For a dog, far less ferocious than the wave, this doggie always accompanied the three surfers who first surfed the wave (without the dog, of course), naming it after their faithful companion.
Belharra made in France!
It is located off the coast of the Basque Country, in Urrugne to be precise, and generally measures between 8 and 15 meters, although it can also reach 20 meters.
It only appears a few times a year, and its formation is quite unusual, at around 3 km from the corniche, offering an exceptional viewpoint.
It stands on a rocky shoal just 15 metres below the surface, known as the "Belharra Perdun", which means "green grass" in Basque. Hence the name "Belharra"!
Belharra Perdun is also known for its scuba-diving in light swell conditions.
In terms of weather conditions, Belharra needs a massive swell from a North Atlantic low, a moment of low tide and a southerly wind to deepen and curve the wave.
This wave generally appears between October and February.
If you're passing through the Basque country, don't hesitate to stop off on the corniche for a magnificent view of the spot!
Teahupoo is located in French Polynesia, in Tahiti to be precise.
In Tahitian, Teahupoo translates as "Skull Wall" in reference to the battle that took place between the clans of this part of the island. Pretty scary, eh?
This spot is world-famous for its incredible lefts, averaging 10 metres in height.
These waves have the particularity of forming extremely quickly and breaking just as quickly, so you don't want to miss the take-off...
They must be the thickest, widest waves in the world.
The seabed is a dangerous coral reef. Swell from the ocean crashes against the steep coral reef to create this gigantic wave.
The problem is that the reef is just a few tens of centimetres below the wave, so falls can have serious consequences, including death.
But it's still an impressive sight to behold!
Every year, Teahupoo hosts a World Surf League competition called the "Billabong Pro Tahiti".
It's surely one of the most prestigious spots in the world.
Pipeline in Hawaii is world-famous for its incredible lefts.
Its location near Oahu's North Shore offers perfect conditions throughout the winter.
This wave mainly works on the left, but occasionally it can work on the right, in which case it's called Backdoor.
This spot operates in the same way as Teahupoo, i.e. it is located on a coral reef, which claims a few victims every year.
This spot also hosts a stage of the World Surf League (WSL) called "Pipe Master", and the waves are located relatively close to the beaches so everyone can enjoy the show.
What about you? Which wave makes you dream?
Image links :
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-i9y92iVgSUs/VAytOVSWyqI/AAAAAAAAJfA/MrkWzQx78FA/s1600/vagues.jpg
https://www.en-pays-basque.fr/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/video-belharra-780x443.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/proxy/iHikhZbRdADG1R7e452QwhcOGHl8Id2EJ2IqC8fEkGM_9CRkdEUIfO1OVcfR4LGpYceNrzVTONQdimOyKDSBHEs2R1mPwP94PP8ATtu8Iw
https://imgv3.surf-report.com/pictures/2020/20200103/thumbnail/mobile/2001037377.png
